Avoid power plug meltdowns - 5 actions to take

Does your power plug feel warm – maybe even hot – when you unplug it?

Are the power cord prongs, or the male or female ends of your electrical adapters, turning weird shades of black, brown, green, or even pink?

If so, you've got a potential disaster brewing. Unless you do something quickly, your plugs or adapters are headed for a meltdown like the ones in this photo.

WHY BAD THINGS HAPPEN TO POWER CORDS AND ADAPTERS

Three reasons:

  • Neglected electrical connection maintenance
  • Environment (humidity and heat)
  • Heavy use of the air conditioner

In the summer it's quite common for RV power plugs to be destroyed by excess heat. But it's not the sun's heat that's causing this to happen. The destruction is the result of heavy air conditioner use combined with corrosion on the power plug's metal prongs.

When you're running the air conditioner on a hot day, a lot of electricity is trying to flow from the power outlet to the metal prongs of your power cord. If the metal has corrosion on it, electricity can't flow through that connection as efficiently.

This causes the metal to get hot, which leads to even faster corrosion, which in turns leads to more heat. In a matter of hours the entire thing can get so hot it melts the plastic and can even start a fire. At the very least, you'll lose power and the plug will be destroyed.

5 WAYS TO AVOID MELTED PLUGS AND ADAPTERS 

1. Keep brass prongs shiny

It's simple: No corrosion, no meltdown!

Most RV power cords and adapters have brass prongs, which are susceptible to corrosion—especially in humid conditions. Brass prongs should always look shiny yellow, not brown, black, or copper colored. 

Check the plug every time you plug it in. If the brass is getting dark, it's time to clean it up. Our AIR GEAR Maintenance Essentials Kit includes tools specifically for this job, and it's easy to do!

2. Switch to nickel-plated adapters ("dogbones")

One thing we've always hated about RV power cords and adapters is that they're made with brass connectors. Brass corrodes easily and that's why we all have the problem of corrosion and meltdowns, and the task of electrical connection maintenance.

Nickel plating over the brass is far superior because it resists corrosion.

When you need a reliable high-power connection that's resistant to corrosion, nickel is a great choice. That's why cords made for high-power uses and humid environments – electric cars and boats, for example – usually have nickel plating.

Sadly, nickel-plated RV cords are rare. Even SmartPlug doesn't use nickel on their RV products.

But you do have a couple of other options:

First, upgrade the adapters you use. We're talking about the "dogbones" that you use to connect to different power plugs, like the ones pictured at right.

AIR GEAR nickel-plated adapters reduce the risk of meltdowns because they're far less susceptible to corrosion and overheating.

Second, if you've already melted a plug, replace the end with a nickel-plated upgrade. I wouldn't go cutting off perfectly good plugs on your cords just to upgrade them to nickel. But if you need a replacement anyway, you can find better plug ends with nickel plating.

3. Avoid extension cords if you can

Three reasons:

  • Extension cords cause the electrical voltage to go down, which means more heat at the plug connections.
  • More points of connection means more places a meltdown can occur.
  • A cheap extension cord will take your primary cord down with it! 

    I speak from experience on this one. The photo at the top of this blog shows our power cord and extension cord plugs lying on grass for two very humid days with the air conditioning running.

    The melting problem started inside the black extension cord's plug because it was a cheap one with thinner metal connectors and probably a bit of corrosion inside. It heated up, and dumped melted plastic on the gray cord that was plugged into it. I explain the details in this 1-minute video:

    You can also see that the heat and corrosion turned the metal prong a copper-ish color. I was able to get the prong back to shiny brass so it was usable in a pinch, but not all the melted plastic could be removed. The only solution was to replace the ends of both cords with better-quality parts before they could safely be used again.

    Safety tip: If you must use an extension cord, use the heaviest one possible, choose one with nickel plating if you can find it, and keep a close eye on it. 

    4. Limit electrical loads

    Late model Airstreams seem to have more electrical appliances every year. Many Airstreams sold in the past few years have dual electric/gas water heaters, electric-only refrigerators, microwave ovens instead of gas ovens, and dual air conditioners.

    But many people don't realize that you can't run all that stuff at once. The total power draw can easily exceed what the power cord can handle, even if it doesn't trip the circuit breaker at the campground power pedestal.

    For example, the single air conditioner in our Airstream Globetrotter 23FB will draw anywhere from 12 to 18 amps by itself, depending on how hard it's working. The microwave oven needs about 12 amps. The electric water heater is another 12 amps or so. But the trailer's power cord is rated for only 30 amps in total. 

    To make matters worse, the National Electrical Code calls for using only 80% of the rated capacity if you're going to use it continuously. Well, on a very hot day your air conditioner is likely to run continuously, and that means any load over 24 amps (on a 30 amp plug) or 40 amps (on a 50 amp plug) is asking for trouble.

    Don't count on the campground's circuit breaker to save you. If you're running a 30-amp trailer on a 50-amp circuit (using an adapter), a meltdown can occur long before the breaker ever trips. (This is also why we recommended upgrading your adapters.)

    A few tips for cutting electrical loads: 

    • Shut off the water heater during the day or run it on gas mode.
    • Switch the fridge to gas mode too, if it has that option.
    • If you want a quick reheat of last night's leftovers, switch off the air just for a minute while you're using the microwave.

    5. Get an EMS

    The need to know how many amps you're using is yet another reason to get a good quality Electrical Management System (EMS). The EMS will show the number of amps you're using on the display. That way you can know if you're nearing the limit, and reduce electrical loads before something bad happens.

    You should also check the voltage on the EMS readout before you plug in. It's wise to assume that the voltage you see in the morning is the best it will be all day, and probably will go down. If it's marginal, talk to the campground.

    An EMS will cut off the power to save your Airstream's air conditioner if the voltage drops too low. In my opinion an EMS is not optional, except for gamblers.

    7-way plugElectricalPower

    5 comments

    Lawrence Warren

    Lawrence Warren

    What is your opinion of the SmartPlug?

    Jerry Hodge

    Jerry Hodge

    Good morning Rich, I loved this article! I have preached shiny prongs many years. Great way to get out a needed message. One comment- a 50 amp plug on an Airstream is accessing two legs of 110 power and enters our 50 amp trailers that way, which actually provides 100 available amps of 110, 50 amps on each leg. That being the case, Airstream is providing a way to get more power into a unit safer since the way the power draw is split to the two legs of 110, there is less chance the 80% suggestion would be exceeded.
    Thanks again for bringing such an important subject to our attention.

    Al Martin

    Al Martin

    Thank you for the information. This exactly what happened to me the worst thing is it would trip the breaker in the electrical room and usually in winter late at night with nobody to help until morning . Finally the electrician came end hooked me up.direct so if it overloads it trips a breaker in my trailer which has been upgraded to a 55 Amp. I recall only once since tripping the main but found out it was coincidence and it wasn’t me was some other thing that had nothing to do with me. Thanks again I’ll take that info and follow it .

    Rich Luhr

    Rich Luhr

    I do agree that SmartPlug is a good product that will reduce the likelihood of a plug failure. It has much heavier connections and wires. However, it’s not a panacea for all of the issues.

    SmartPlug (the RV version) still uses brass prongs on the campground end of the power cord and thus needs to be maintained just like any other plug, as Hervey points out. You can see a photo of a melted SmartPlug in this blog:

    https://www.airgear.store/blogs/solar-electrical-and-batteries/does-your-airstream-power-plug-look-like-this

    It’s also not going to help if you use an ordinary brass dogbone (adapter). If you use one of those, check out our nickel-plated dogbones here:

    https://www.airgear.store/products/air-gear-nickel-plated-power-adapter-set

    Kelli Meier

    Kelli Meier

    Super GREAT Info!
    We have had an adaptor cut our power and I will never use that one again, it is definitely burnt. Glad we didn’t have bigger problems as I have heard are common. I’ll get one of yours.

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