Myths and mysteries about leveling and chocking travel trailers

Have you ever seen a travel trailer in a campground with a stack of blocks under the hitch jack or stabilizer jacks (when one would do), and wondered why? 

A reader of this blog recently asked us about that practice, and a few other things related to chocking and leveling. Honestly, we've avoided this topic for years because the answers will make a few people uncomfortable. But we recently decided that it's time to shine light on the mysteries and bust a few myths along the way.

Here are the answers to the inquiring reader's questions, as well as a few others we have been asked over the years.

Do you need anything under a stabilizer jack, like a leveling block or chunk of wood?

In most cases, no.

The BAL brand stabilizer used on late model Airstreams has a wide pad at the bottom. In most situations, this is all you need. The wide pad makes the stabilizer very steady and keeps it from sinking into the ground under most circumstances. It doesn't need any sort of protection.

You might want to put one plastic leveling block underneath the stabilizer's pad if you want to spread the weight over a bigger area, to keep the pad from sinking. This might be the case when:

• the ground is very soft, like sand or wet earth
• you're going to be parked for a long time (weeks)

But keep in mind that these situations aren't typical on the average Airstream trip.

Why would you want to put more than one leveling block under a stabilizer jack or hitch jack?

When the ground is very uneven.

Leveling blocks are great help when you're parked on uneven terrain. This often is the case at rallies and when you're courtesy parking. Sometimes one or more of the jacks can't reach the ground without a block or two. 

Other than this circumstance, having more than one block under a stabilizer jack or hitch jack doesn't accomplish anything.

What about aftermarket "snap on" type pads for the stabilizer jacks?

The aftermarket "snap on" pads that attach to the bottom of the stabilizers are great for big motorhomes and fifth wheel trailers. Those heavy rigs often have tiny "feet" that are prone to sinking into the ground, so owners are forced to crawl underneath and place boards or blocks every time they park. 

But this really isn't an issue with Airstream trailers, because they're lighter and they already have pretty big "feet" from the factory. Same is true for lighter-weight travel trailer brands.

So the question becomes whether there's any need to install an aftermarket pad over the existing one, on an Airstream.

One reason might be slippery surfaces, such as mud or wet grass. Occasionally, we've found that it's hard to connect our Hensley hitch when the trailer is on wet grass, because the metal pads tend to let the trailer slip away from the truck. A set of 4 permanently attached rubber pads might help with this occasional situation.

Is there a reason to put a block under the hitch jack?

Usually.

Hitch jacks carry a lot more weight than the stabilizer jacks, and they don't always have the wide round pad to spread out the weight. Especially on hot days, they tend to sink into grass or asphalt, which is annoying to the property owner. Some sort of flat metal plate, leveling block, or a BAL Tongue Twister is the courteous thing to use.

The only reason to put a stack of blocks under the hitch jack is when you're parked on a downhill slope, and the jack simply can't reach the ground without some help.

Is it ok to use concrete blocks or wood to level the trailer?

Blocks of plastic or wood are best. I wouldn't carry around concrete blocks for routine use. Who wants more weight in their truck, and higher fuel expense? And, as one person wrote in the comments (below), concrete blocks can be dangerous.

I have power stabilizer jacks that descend in tandem. How do I level these? 

Those power stabilizers can be frustrating until you get used to them. Campsites are often not level from side-to-side, but the power stabilizers come down together. This means one of the pads will contact the ground while the other one is still hanging in the air.

Airstream Classics, Globetrotters, and others may have the Lippert PSX2 power stabilizers installed. These are distinguished by having one motor for each stabilizer jack (2 motors per set), and they can accommodate differences in terrain. The owners manual says: "If the ground beneath the stabilizer is not level, it is possible that one of the stabilizer legs will reach the ground first. If this happens, continue pressing EXTEND until the second stabilizer leg reaches the ground and stabilizes the trailer.”

But what if you have the Lippert PSX1 (one motor per set) or another type? Leveling blocks to the rescue!

Use them on the low side of the campsite so that the stabilizer jacks on each side of the trailer make contact at the same time. (A little discrepancy, less than an inch, is OK.)

If you want the option of fine-tuning the height, carry a couple of 1/2" thick boards or metal plates that are about the same size as the jack pads. In a pinch, I've even used flat rocks that I found near the campsite.

How firmly should I set the stabilizers?

Your dealer may have warned you that the stabilizers are not levelers. You can't use them to compensate for an uneven campground, but you should set them firmly to the ground, meaning that the stabilizer is pressing down with some weight.

How to tell? If you observe the tires closely when you set the stabilizer, you may notice that the trailer lifts slightly (like 1/4" to 1/2") when the stabilizers are firmly in place. This is what you want to see. You're taking a bit of weight off the suspension and tires, and transferring it to the stabilizer jacks. That will make the trailer less bouncy when you are inside it.

When should chocks be used?

Chocks are obviously useful for preventing the trailer from rolling, so you'll want to use them anytime you're parking on a slope. They're also important when hitching up, because they'll keep the trailer from rolling if you push it with the truck accidentally.

"X" type chocks (the kind that go between the wheels of a tandem-axle trailer, pictured below) are great for another reason. They can help you eliminate the annoying squeak that sometimes comes from the brakes when you're parked.

One warning: Those cheap plastic triangles sold by Camco and Wal-Mart are really useless. They'll slide easily on asphalt. Get real chocks, made of heavy material with no-slip bottoms (rubber), or use X-chocks between the wheels.

How tight should X-chocks be?

Tighten the X-chocks until they are pressing very firmly against the tread of the tires (a little deflection in the rubber is noticeable). If the tires are still able to move when you're walking inside the trailer, you can tighten the chocks a little more. You won't damage the tires.

Keep in mind that after towing the tires will cool down, and so there will be lower air pressure in them. You may find that on the next morning you need to give the X-chocks a little tweak to tighten them more, to account for the decreased pressure in the tires.